Ladder of Kotor vs Kotor Fortress Hike: The Complete Guide (Free & Paid)

If you’re searching for the ultimate hike in Kotor Montenegro, these two trails need to be on your radar because they are one of the best things to do in Kotor. We’ve hiked up to the fortress more times than I care to admit during our two months in Kotor. The first time we paid. The second time we didn’t. The difference was significant enough that I felt the need to write an entire blog post about it to help you choose which is best for you.

But before I do let’s clear something up, because the internet has done a genuinely terrible job of explaining this.

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How To Hike Kotor Fortress

Ladder of Kotor V The Fortress

I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve seen these two trails use interchangeably.

They’re not the same hike, they don’t start in the same place and one of them costs €15 while the other costs nothing. These are fairly important distinctions.

The confusion comes from the fact that the Ladder of Kotor trail can grant you free access to the fortress, you will have to go on a short detour and scramble through a window. Some people do this and then share online they’ve done the “Ladder of Kotor”, the fact there is a wooden ladder at this access point doesn’t help matters. But actually the Ladder of Kotor is a much longer trail.

So what is the difference?

• The Kotor Fortress hike is also known as the Kotor city walls hike, or the San Giovanni Fortress hike. This is a paid trail that starts inside the city walls. You hand over €15, follow 1,350 steps upward and arrive at the fortress at the top. It’s busy, it’s exposed and it very much feels like a city tourist attraction… because it is one.
• The Ladder of Kotor is a free trail that starts outside the city walls. It follows a gravel path with zigzagging switchbacks up the mountainside, and includes an optional climb through a 700-year-old window via a small wooden ladder which, incidentally, drops you directly onto the paid trail without having paid a cent. The trail then continues well beyond the fortress, all the way up to the main road if you’re feeling ambitious.

The fortress route is where the cruise ship crowds go whereas the ladder trail is noticeably quieter, more interesting, and honestly just a better time. I’d always recommend this trail over the “official” fortress one.

History

Formally known as the Ladder of Cattaro – the Venetian name for Kotor. Before the Austrians showed up in 1797, locals were already scrambling up this mountainside on old goat trails. The Austrians formalised it as a military supply route and for over a hundred years, everything travelled up those 70 switchbacks. Salt, wine, cattle, soldiers. Most notably, an entire billiard table ordered from Vienna by the local prince bishop, carried up by mules. Nobody recorded how that went but I imagine it wasn’t fun for anyone involved. I mean carrying groceries up a few flights of stairs is tough, but a billiard table up steep switchbacks, no thanks.

The name has nothing to do with the wooden ladder at the fortress window. From across the bay, the zigzagging path apparently looked like a ladder against the mountain. The internet has been confused about this ever since.

If you’re on a cruise stopover or only have a few hours, the paid fortress hike is the realistic option, you’re back in the old town within two hours. The full Ladder of Kotor needs at least half a day. That said, even cruise day-trippers can do the first stretch of the ladder trail to the crossroads, through the window to the fortress and back it’s only about 45 minutes minutes up and gives you a completely different perspective than the fortress crowds.

Kotor Fortress Hike Map

If you’re driving in for the day, parking near the trailhead is easier than the old town. There’s a car park close to the Kamelija shopping centre which is walking distance from the start. Avoid trying to park inside the old town as it’s expensive, limited, and the surrounding roads get badly congested in summer. I also saw many cars clamped outside the Church of the Most Holy Theotokos, I walked past here on a daily basis on my way to the gym and everyday there were always a line of cars clamped.

Kotor Fortress – Paid Version

Starting Point

The start of the Kotor Fortress hike is located inside old town, there are two entrances.

Entrance 1 is located here while entrance 2 is located here. Both of these entrances lead to a ticket booth where 1 – 2 men hand out tickets which you must keep on you to prove you paid. Only cash is accepted.

A water fountain is located at entrance one, if you’ve empty bottles of water make sure you fill them up as it’s thirsty work.

You can check the AllTrails route here.

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Opening Hours

• 1st March – 30th April: 8 AM – 6 PM
• 1st May – 30th September: 7 AM – 8 PM
• 1st October – 30th November: 8 AM – 5 PM
• 1 December – 28 February: Free to climb (no fee collected)

You can technically climb outside staffed hours, but the path has no lighting, which makes it genuinely dangerous after dark. It’s also worth knowing that it’s prohibited to be on the walls past 10 PM, you can be fined.

Best Time to Hike Kotor Fortress

This trail is exposed to the sun from sunrise. It is south-facing with no tree cover and full sun by mid-morning. The limestone steps also radiate heat back at you, it’s a sweaty affair to say the least.

We climbed this in the afternoon in September, it was so hot, I could feel the sun prickling on my skin even though I applied generous amounts of suncream. I would advise climbing this trail as early as possible, 7 AM -9 AM would be ideal.

Difficulty

This is a moderate hike. It’s 1,350 limestone steps covering 2.5 km, so not brutal, but the complete lack of shade turns it into more of an ordeal than the distance suggests.

The Route: What To Expect On The Way Up

The path alternates between cobblestones and stone steps. I personally preferred taking the cobblestone path on the way up and the steps coming down. The cobblestones become super slippy when wet. I would not wear sandals on this.

You’ll pass two large viewing platforms along the way, both of which offer sweeping views over the Bay of Kotor and both of which I used as entirely legitimate excuses to stop and drink water (ok and catch my breath).

You’ll also walk past the Church of Our Lady of Remedy, a pretty little church dating back to 1518, one of the oldest buildings in Kotor. You can’t go inside, but if you climb a few steps past it and look back, you’ll immediately understand why it ends up in every piece of Kotor tourism material ever made.

From there it’s a final push up the stairs, another 10 minutes and you’re at St John’s Fortress.

Kotor Fortress itself is multi-storey and to put it diplomatically, not in pristine condition. Holes in the floor, collapsed sections of roof, structural support that you’d rather not think too hard about. Explore carefully, watch where you step and at your own risk.

That said, the views from the top are genuinely worth it. The entire Bay of Kotor stretches out below you, a large Montenegrin flag flies in the foreground.

Getting back down

To get back down you can go the same way you came, it’s straightforward and you’ve already paid. The views of the bay are just as good on the descent, arguably better, since you can actually look up and enjoy them instead of staring at your feet on the way up.

If you hiked outside of opening hours and got in for free, if you descend when the gates have opening you will be made to pay the full €15 fee.

Spending the night? I’ve put together a guide on where to stay in Kotor, including the best neighborhoods and hotels for all budgets.

The €15 Ticket Situation (Read This Before You Go)

I can’t write about the Kotor Fortress hike without mentioning this, because it genuinely bothered me.

The fortress is run by a private company and the entrance fee doesn’t go towards maintaining the site. Beyond that, there are numerous reports of the men at the turnstiles using aggressive and intimidating tactics towards tourists who have hiked up before opening hours and then come back down without realising they needed to pay on exit. Some people have even reported having their ticket confiscated along the way and then being forced to pay again when exiting.

If you have no ticket and no cash, apparently they make you climb back up and exit via the ladder instead.

There are no signs warning about any of this. A person who sets off at 6 AM for a sunrise hike, perfectly innocently, can find themselves in a very uncomfortable situation a few hours later. There are reports of it turning physical.

I don’t begrudge anyone in a tourist-heavy town trying to make a living. But the lack of transparency, combined with the aggressive enforcement, is worth knowing about before you go. The Kotor Fortress entrance fee has nearly doubled from 2024, jumping from €8 to €15.

All that being said, once you pay your fee and have your ticket the men are pretty chill. They just don’t mess around.

The Ladder of Kotor: The Free Route (And The Better One)

I much preferred the Ladder of Kotor over the paid trail. The scenery is more rugged and fills you with a sense of tranquility that only being out in nature can. It’s also away from the crowds which is always a bonus.

You can join up to the fortress trail by passing the €15 entrance fee, I’ll explain exactly how to do that below, along with how to do the entire 14 km trail.

Starting Point

The ladder of Kotor hike starts outside the city walls, at the bottom of the road where the shopping centre is located. You can find it on GoogleMaps here. Please also see the AllTrails route here, however it only goes to the viewpoint, not the main road (see my map for that).

Opening Hours

Unlike the Kotor Fortress there are no turnstiles so you can start whenever you want. Although there is no lighting on the path, so night hiking isn’t a great idea.

Best Time to Hike the Ladder of Kotor

This is an ideal early morning hike, it stays in shade longer because the mountainside faces away from the morning sun but once you’re above the treeline on the upper switchbacks, you’re exposed again.

We mostly climbed in the afternoon (I like my sleep) and certainly found it tough, however once it gets to around 4 PM it becomes shaded again as the sun slowly begins to descend. We did hike it once in the morning, approximately 6:30 AM, it was so much easier, it actually felt cool due to the shade.

Save my list of the best cafes, restaurants & bars in Kotor.

Difficulty

This is an easy-moderate trail, the ascent is mostly gradual but some parts are steep. You also need to watch your footing on the way down as the rocky path can be a trip hazard, I went down on my ankle a few times.

The Route: What To Expect On The Way Up

The first stretch involves around 30 steep switchbacks. The views are expansive but honestly difficult to appreciate mid-switchback when you’re concentrating on not sliding on loose gravel. You’ll need decent shoes.

Eventually after 2 km you’ll reach a cheese shop selling drinks and snacks, a welcome sight on a hot day. This cheese shop is run by a cute couple, you can sit on their patio and admire the views. They sell homemade cheese, wine, juice and rakija. I recommend stopping here on your way down, as it’s the kind of place you can easily spend hours in.

If you’re planning where to eat after the hike, I’ve got a full guide to the best cafés, restaurants and bars in Kotor.

There are also a lot of goats in this section, which is either charming or alarming depending on your relationship with goats.

Stay right on the path through the forested section for about 150 metres until you reach St. Juraj Church (also known as Sveti Đorđe), from where you should be able to spot the ladder in the distance. The green area is the abandoned village of Špiljari with ruins of old houses that have crumbled into a few stones.

From the church, the ladder to Kotor Fortress is about five minutes away. The landscape here is my favourite, it’s idyllic with the old church surrounded by greenery and old stone structures.

The ladder itself is a small wooden structure with 3 steps leading up to a window in a 700-year-old wall. It looks completely unremarkable until you actually start climbing it, at which point you’ll notice the sharp drop to rocks on your right. Take it carefully. Once you’re through the window, you’re on the paid trail — no ticket required.

I’ll be honest – this trail is just better than the Kotor Fortress. The scenery is more interesting, the path is more varied, the crowds are thinner, and it actually feels like you’re somewhere wild rather than on a managed tourist route. There are goats. There are pomegranate trees. There are crumbling stone walls that look like they’ve been there since before anyone thought to charge €15 to walk past them.

Is Kotor worth visiting? Read my pros and cons here.

The Full Hike: What Happens After The Fortress

You can go much further the fortress. The fortress is really just a cool detour from the main route. The entire Ladder of Kotor will take you to the main road.

Instead of turning left at the cheese shop, continue on the main trail, this will take you up another 30 – 35 switchbacks. The path gets progressively narrower but the views just keep getting better. Eventually the rooftops look like little orange dots and the cruise ships are a mere speck amidst mountainous landscape (yay).

You also get higher than the mountain ridges on the left of Kotor Bay along with being able to witness the fortifications from the fortress to the city.

We did not do the complete hike, we did 80 – 85% of it. We initially planned to go to Restaurant Nevjesta Jadrana located at the top for a bite to eat (amazing views) but ended up going much slower than anticipated due to the heat. We turned around once the landscape was taking us through a forested path, you no longer get the panoramic views of the bay so we thought this was a good spot to cut it short. There was only another 1.3 km to the main road, which would have been through a forested area.

Getting Down: Your Three Options (One Costs €15, Two Don’t)

At the crossroads on your way back down, you’ve basically got three options and which one you pick will determine whether this hike costs you €15 or remains free.

1. Go back the way you came + skip the fortress: simply follow the main trail all the way to the bottom. FREE.
2. Fortress: Detour to the fortress via the ladder and window. Then walk down the main steps of the fortress hike (do not climb back through the window. You will have to pay the €15 when you exit (inside of ticket booth hours). This is a good option for anyone wanting to experience both hikes.
3. Fortress and then back through the window to the free path: Detour to the fortress and then climb back through the window, down the wooden ladder to get back on the main free trail. FREE. – this is what I recommend.

Looking for something unforgettable to do during your time in Kotor? Read my Kotor Cable Car + Alpine Coaster honest review & guide.

No matter how long you are spending in Kotor Montenegro, this hike belongs on your list. Looking for more to do while you’re here? My guide to the 15 best things to do in Kotor covers everything worth your time.

Kotor Fortress FAQ

How long does it take to walk up Kotor Fortress?

The paid fortress hike takes around 1.5–2 hours return. The Ladder of Kotor to the fortress window takes about 25–35 minutes from the trailhead, or roughly 6 hours for the full 14km out-and-back route.

How high is Kotor Fortress?

St. John’s Fortress sits at 254 metres above sea level. The full Ladder of Kotor trail climbs to around 850 metres at its highest point near the main road.

Is the Ladder of Kotor worth it?

Yes, the Ladder of Kotor is absolutely worth it, particularly if you’re choosing between the two. It’s free, quieter, more scenic, and the landscape actually changes as you climb. The paid fortress hike is fine but it’s essentially a very steep city walk in the sun. The Ladder feels like a proper mountain hike. If you only have time for one, do the Ladder and detour through the window on the way down to see the fortress.

What is the difference between the Ladder of Kotor and Kotor Fortress?

They’re two completely separate hikes that happen to end at the same place. The Kotor Fortress hike starts inside the old town walls, costs €15 and takes about 1.5–2 hours return. The Ladder of Kotor starts outside the city walls near the old power plant, is completely free, and is a much longer trail, 14km return if you do the full route. The wooden ladder at the fortress window that lets you access the paid trail for free is not the same thing as the Ladder of Kotor trail, despite what most of the internet will tell you.

Is the Ladder of Kotor the same as the Kotor cable car?

No, completely separate activities. The Kotor cable car launched in Spring 2025 and runs from the lower station near the main road up to Lovćen National Park. It doesn’t intersect with the Ladder of Kotor trail at any point. If you’re short on time, the cable car is a quick way to get elevation and views without the hike but it’s a different experience entirely. For a full breakdown of the experience, read my Kotor cable car and alpine coaster review.