K O T O R
travel guide
I can often get suckered into visiting viral places on social media. I hate myself for it. Many times all I uncover are people’s flair for exaggeration. Kotor was one of those places that I saw all over my social media, “hidden gem”, “must visit”, blah blah blah, you know the lingo. I already knew Montenegro, a hairdresser in Zagreb proudly told me all about her home country, and how much she missed it. While my colour developed I scrolled through photos of vast mountains, fjord like bays and cobblestone streets. Just like that Montenegro secured a spot on my bucket list, but Kotor itself was almost forced upon me online. Mostly the “viral” cafes and La Catedral Pasta Bar.
Arriving by bus, Kotor gave me a warm welcome. The views from the window were warning me that this place was wild: silver mountain peaks, lush spruce trees, turquoise water, terracotta rooftops. I spent two months getting lost on the Ladder of Kotor where the goats were the only other hikers, screaming with joy on an alpine coaster on Lovcen, lazing on the beaches of Muo, taking walks in Dobrota and eating the local speciality custard cake, krempita.
All visitors to Kotor must pay a tourist tax of €1 per day. You must pay it here, it cannot be paid online →
The Kotor Essentials
September
Warm enough to swim in the bay, cool enough to handle the 1,350 steps up to St John’s Fortress, and quiet enough that you can actually walk Stari Grad.
June through August can be chaos, with cruise ships dumping thousands of day-trippers into the Old Town between 9am and 5pm. November to March is mostly closed up. April is a nice gamble.
Kotor isn’t cheap by Balkan standards. The UNESCO Old Town pushes prices up. July and August doubles. Book 2 to 3 months out.
Stari Grad is the obvious pick. Magic after dark.
Dobrota, ten minutes north along the water, gives you sea-view balconies for less.
Perast is the romantic splurge.
days
dishes.
Adriatic seafood from the bay and Balkan mountain cooking from Njeguši, both on the same menu.
Small grilled minced meat fingers, served in tens with warm flatbread (somun), raw chopped onion, and a scoop of kajmak. Balkan fast food at its best.
Two thin sheets of puff pastry sandwiching a thick pillow of vanilla custard, dusted with icing sugar. Order one with a Turkish coffee and call that your afternoon.
Coiled or layered filo pastry stuffed with minced meat, cheese, or spinach. Breakfast food. Find a pekara, order it by weight, and eat it hot from the tray standing up.
Air-dried smoked ham and aged sheep’s cheese from the mountain village 40 minutes above Kotor. On a wooden board with olives and a carafe of homemade red. Get this at least once.
Black cuttlefish risotto, stained with squid ink and loaded with rings of seafood. A Venetian holdover. Galion and Cesarica both do a solid version.
Where To Stay In Kotor
Kotor/Bay Kotor is not just Kotor Old Town. There are a few villages nearby that may be a better fit for you than Kotor Old Town.
For those staying in Kotor for just 1 – 2 days then Old Town places you in a convenient spot for getting to the top attractions. It has a romantic atmosphere with medieval walls embracing the terracotta buildings and cobblestone streets. It also has the best nightlife of anywhere on the bay. However, it gets swamped between 9am and 5pm when cruise ships dock, sometimes three at a time.
Dobrota is perfect for a quieter experience yet close enough to old town to enjoy the nightlife. If you are staying for a few days, this is my top pick. It is mostly a car-free zone with a dedicated 5 km cycle/walking track. Just make sure your accommodation is not on the road marked E80/E65 – this is a main road. There are many little cafes and restaurants, along with small stone beaches overlooking the bay.
Muo and Prcanj sit on the west of the bay. They are much quieter but also much cheaper. Muo is just a 20 minute walk to Old Town, but Prcanj requires you to take a bus or drive.
Perast is the furthest town from Old Town. It’s a small fishing village at the northern end of the bay. It’s one of the most romantic areas to stay, but it is small, you can see it all in just 1-2 hours. Kotor is just a 15 minute drive away, but you cannot walk it therefore I only recommend Perast to those who are visiting Kotor with a car.
If you want a full breakdown on each area, read my where to stay in Kotor guide here 
| Travel style | Best area to stay in Kotor |
|---|---|
| First-timers | Old Town + Dobrota |
| Budget travelers | Muo + Prcanj |
| Peaceful | Muo, Prcanj + Dobrota |
| Nature & scenery | Dobrota + Muo |
Best Hotels In Kotor
Luxury | HUMA Hotel
Mid-range | Hotel Vardar
Budget | Apartments Andrija
Getting Around Kotor
Kotor is a nightmare to get around, traffic during peak season creates a gridlock on the roads. Although technically towns are not that far from each other, the traffic dramatically extends travel time. There is a highway currently being built between Herceg Novi and Budva which will greatly improve things, until then you can’t escape the traffic. It’s due to be completed in 2026 at some point.
Bus
There is a bus network but it is not reliable, the timetable says one thing but the reality is another story. They are not dependable but it you’re not stuck on a specific time and don’t mind a wait, then the bus is ok.
For towns outside of Kotor like Herceg Novi, Budva and Tivat there are frequent Blueline buses. You can book tickets on busticket4.me. Buses between Perast, Dobrota, Muo and Kotor can be paid for with cash on board. Tickets are only €1.
Driving
If you plan on mostly travelling around Kotor Bay, rather than sticking to 1 or 2 areas, then renting a car is the best option. However, Kotor has a shortage of parking spaces so it’s critical to find accommodation with a parking space. A clamped car in Kotor is not a rare sight.
Water Taxi
Water taxis are also available, they are a faster alternative to Kotor’s congested roads. You can find them mainly at Kotor harbour and Perast. However, they are expensive costing around €40 for a 20 minute journey across the bay. The boats are small and go fast, therefore they are not suitable for anyone with motion sickness.
Best Things To Do In Kotor
