Sitting on the edge of Taiwan’s northeastern mountains, Jiufen (九份) is a historic Taiwanese town that will have you feeling like you are in a completely different world. Thought to be the inspiration behind Studio Ghibli’s Spirited Away, although dispelled by the films creator, once you step into Jiufen Old Street there is no denying its likeness to the film. Located just one hour from the modern Taipei, Jiufen will have you feeling like you have stepped into a different world (Spirited Away, if you will).
The former gold mining town is a popular tourist attraction that many do as a day trip from Taipei. It is not hard to see why this town is so popular. Thanks to the mountainous landscape the buildings hang precariously on the cliff edge, giving the town a topsy turvy look from below, from within the dark alleys are enchanting, stacked with ancient tea houses, views of the Pacific and delicious scents of foods winding down the cobbled staircases, all engulfed in sea mist. Once the evening hits, flickering red lanterns guide your path down centuries old staircases.
We spent an unforgettable 3 days in Jiufen, sipping on tea leaves in rustic teahouses, climbing mountains and eating some of the best food we had over our 3 months in Taiwan. This travel guide has all the best things to do in Jiufen, important information the make your trip smooth, oh and most importantly what to eat on Jiufen Old Street. Before we get into it, here is a quick overview of Jiufens history.
Brief History Of Jiufen
- Jiufen means “nine portion”, it is believed that at one stage just nine families lived here (can you imagine the gossiping)
- In 1893 gold was discovered, leading to Jiufen’s prosperous growth which continued up until the 1950’s
- From the 1950’s after the gold was depleted Jiufen fell by the wayside, it wasn’t until the late 1980’s when the film City Of Sadness was shot here that the town gained notoriety, with viewers becoming attracted to Jiufen’s old world charm.
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Best Time To Visit Jiufen
I would recommend visiting during both the day and night. During the day you have incredible views which can be enjoyed from the comfort of one of the many teahouses, hiking or while wandering the town. However, at night, the red lanterns turn on, and the alleyways glow crimson creating an atmospheric, almost out of this world walk.
Now, one major caveat is that it is an incredibly busy place. If possible, visit during weekdays. Over our weekend, we noticed that it gets especially busy from 2 pm onwards, peaking between 5 pm and 7 pm when the food stalls begin closing, and then it slowly gets quieter. The lanterns turn off at about 10 p.m, so 9 pm is a really great time to explore the red lantern lit Shuqi Street. If you are can, early mornings are also ideal. You can see the chefs prepare their food for the day and have crowdless views from observation decks. However, most stalls open at 10 am or 11 am.
In terms of weather, like the rest of Taiwan, it is unpredictable. Due to the mountains and sea the weather can change at any minute, from hot and humid to wet and windy. We had 1.5 days of clear skies whereas the other 1.5 were torrential rain. I would suggest packing an umbrella, which is without a doubt a necessity for Taiwan, and if you don’t get the best weather don’t fret because Jiufen is fantastic at all times.
The majority of stalls and restaurants in Jiufen Old Street close between 7 pm and 8 pm. A few will stay open until 9 pm but after then it becomes pretty much deserted. There is a 24 hour Family Mart + 711 though.
How Long Should I Spend In Jiufen
Most people take a day trip to Jiufen from Taipei, and it tends to be just a 2- or 3-hour stop. I would recommend spending a night here to have a chance to hike, explore without the crowds, relax in the teahouses, and really get the most out of it. I feel a few hours would be too rushed, but it is doable.
Is Jiufen Too Touristy?
There is no denying that Jiufen draws large crowds. It gets very busy, the alleys become crowded, and you have to slow down to tortoise-mode speed. If you are someone who finds crowds wearying, it might seem like too much. However, I really despise large crowds in small spaces. I get anxious, impatient, and flustered-just generally not having a good time. Whenever Jiufen started to feel like a line for holy communion, we would find a place to chill out for a while, have a beer, boba or a small bite. It is also worth noting that outside of Jishan Street and Shuqi Street, it is much quieter.
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How To Get To Jiufen From Taipei
Bus
The 1062 goes from Zhongxiao Fuxing (outside SOGO). It is the most direct route, taking just 1 hour and costs about NT$100 ($3.10 / €2.90 / £2.40). You can use your EasyCard for this.
Train + Bus
Another option is to take the “fast local train” from Songshan Station, it makes just 5 stops and reaches Ruifang Station in 37 minutes. You can purchase tickets from the machine at the station, seats are non-reservable or tap on with your EasyCard.
From Ruifang Station, you can take the 1062 or 788 bus to Jiufen. Alternatively, taxis (uber) are affordable in Taiwan, Ruifang to Jiufen cost us just €6 for a 15 minute scenic journey.
Ruifang is a nice area to explore, there is a small old street , food court and in typical taiwanese fashion, plenty of street food. The cafe across from the station Memory Coffee had some of the best coffee I drank in all of Taiwan.
If you are short on time there are many day trips that go to Jiufen from Taipei.
Where To Stay In Jiufen?
If you are spending a few nights exploring the Ruifang district, Jiufen is a great base. Although most places close pretty early, the town has such a nice vibe. Staying in Jiufen will also allow you to explore during quieter periods, such as early morning or late at night. If you plan to hike you are also within walking distance of Keelung Mountain and a short bus trip from Teapot Mountain.
We stayed in 95 Pavilion, a charming hotel run by a very friendly lady. It’s located just a 1-minute walk up a staircase to Food Street. The rooms are very spacious, especially when compared to other hotels in the area. We stayed in the Deluxe Double Room with Sea View, which as the name suggests, had an incredible coastal view, and equally important comfy chair. Along with being spacious, the room was impeccably designed with warm light features, comfortable bedding and a smart toilet. On the 2nd floor there is a tea station where you help yourself to tea and filtered water. You can also get complimentary tea, coffee and cakes each morning downstairs.
They did not pay me to stay here (FYI); I just loved it so much!
10 Things To Do In Jiufen
1. Keelung Trail
Towering over Jiufen is the non-intimidating Keelung Mountain. At 588 metres (1,930 feet), it is known as one of Taiwan’s 100 minor peaks. It is large enough to give you a sense of achievement at the top, yet small enough to be suitable for all fitness levels.
The trail is a well-maintained stone staircase. It is not steep, but there are hundreds of steps. If you find yourself needing a break, there are three pavilions where you can rest or just cool down from the unforgiving Taiwan sun. The trail is not covered, so make sure to pack lots of water. I find a UV umbrella really helps block out the sun and keep you in some form of shade.
We visited in mid-October and had A LOT of rain. At the start of this hike, we got a glimpse of the amazing view, but soon enough, heavy clouds rolled in and torrential rain ensued. Ironically, the UV umbrella I took for protection from the sun ended up protecting me from the rain instead. I actually really liked the foggy scenery, but I hope you are luckier with the weather. As the path is stone, once it rained, it got very slippery, so make sure to wear appropriate footwear.
Lastly, I recommend you pack plenty of water. Even if it’s cloudy, the humidity is usually extremely high here, it makes you get thirsty very quickly, especially when hiking.
The total trail length is just under 1 mile (1.5 km). It should take just 40 minutes, round trip. Overall, it’s an easy and fun thing to do in Jiufen, just a short walk from Old Street.
2. Visit A Tea House On Old Street
Taiwan is known for its high-quality tea, and drinking tea is ingrained in the culture, so much so there is even a popular saying: “You have friends, and you have tea – so you’re rich!”. Therefore, visiting a teahouse is one of the best things to do in Jiufen. There are plenty of teahouses to visit in Jiufen. With its mountainside location, the teahouses have a tranquil view of the coast and the ancient, topsy-turvy style buildings on Jiufen Old Street. Jiufen is especially famous for its oolong tea, where it is produced in the surrounding mountains.
Drinking tea in Taiwan is not exactly a casual affair. If, like me, you just grab a Barry’s teabag (Gold Blend, of course), plop it in a bowl-size cup, dunk it a few times, and splash some milk in, then the ritual of drinking tea in Taiwan is going to feel oh so fancy. However, it is an enjoyable experience witnessing the expertise, love, and respect people have for tea here.
The general procedure in a teahouse is that you begin by choosing your tea leaves along with the amount from the menu. Some places will also have a set menu that includes a selection of biscuits or cake. Once you have made your choice, a tea master will demonstrate how to brew the tea. Throughout your time, someone will continuously top up your pot of water, which is kept heated on a stove.
You are typically given a 3-hour time slot, which might seem like a long time, but you get a lot of tea. One measure of tea leaves serves approximately six small cups.
You won’t be hard pressed to find a teahouse in Jiufen but here are a few I recommend.
Amei Teahouse
The Spirited Away teahouse, this is not only the most famous teahouse in Jiufen but it’s also the most photographed location on Jiufen Old Street. They offer individual teas and also a set menu, which costs NT$300 per person ($9.35 / €8.65 / £7.20) for 20g of tea leaves and a selection of traditional Taiwanese sweets (turtle cake, plums and sesame crackers).
Again, the weather was very bad during our trip so we didn’t have a view, but we did sit on the balcony and could imagine how beautiful it would be on a clear day.
Jiufen Teahouse
This next teahouse is one for the tea connoisseurs, those who know their oolong from their black, their grassy notes from their floral, their porcelain cups from… ok you get the drift. Jiufen teahouse offers a high-end experience, it is one of the more expensive teahouses with a vast selection of teas. Inside, it is truly beautiful, there is a rustic yet tranquil atmosphere with roaring fireplaces, a small koi fish pond and the balcony overlooks Amei Teahouse. Wherever you are seated is guarantea-d (I know, hilarious) to be lovely, we sat in the gazebo, which was beautiful.
We opted for the “honey scented tea” which cost NT$1,000 ($31.20 / €28.90 / £24.15) for 30g, we chose this for its delicate balance of notes and aromas because it was one of the cheapest teas on the menu, but some teas were priced as high as NT$2,200 ($68.60 / €63.60 / £53.10). We also ordered the oolong cheesecake which was incredible, along with the traditional Taiwanese red and green turtle cakes, both delicious accompaniments to Jiufen’s cheapest tea. The tea master explained in detail the different teas and how to brew our selected one, we were also given a postcard with the instructions. Lastly, we could keep the remaining tea leaves we did not use (this was not the case in AMEI teahouse).
The tea master informed us that pu-erh tea was very famous at Jiufen Teahouse, it has a few health benefits. It is a unique tea produced in Yunnan Province, China with an earthy and bitter flavour.
Shanhai Tea House 1983
Unfortunately, we didn’t get a chance to visit this teahouse but we walked by it every day, and the people working there seemed so friendly. It is much smaller than the two other teahouses I mentioned above and offers a more personable experience. They specialise in oolong tea and overlook the ocean.
3. Charcoal Latte From CHLV
If tea is not your thing, or you simply grow tired of it after all the teahouse visits, there are a few nice cafes in the area for a caffeine fix. Amid the rustic old town is the super trendy and minimalist CHLV. Its slick black exterior certainly stands out, more befitting for the streets of Yongkang or Zhongshan in Taipei, rather than the retro Jiufen.
Their signature drink is a delicious charcoal latte sprinkled with gold, appropriately named the Jiufen Latte, a nod to the town’s gold mining past.
You can enjoy it indoors in CHLV’s aesthetic space or admire the views from the observation deck opposite CHLV. Word of warning: once you’re finished, check your reflection, if not, you risk walking around like you had a date in a chimney.
4) Explore Food Street
The hectic yet delightfully aromatic Jiufen Old Street is chockablock with shops and food-oh, so much food! From about 3 pm onwards, it gets very busy, so if possible, I recommend visiting earlier to avoid long queues. Wandering the alleys and filling up on the food is of course one of the main things to do in Jiufen. Due to the metal roofs, the street is pretty much in darkness all day and night, the lanterns and regular sound of rainfall bouncing off the old metal roofs all combine for a unique atmosphere.
If you are looking for what to eat here are some of the best dishes and places to fill up on, on Jiufen Old Street.
Traditional Taiwanese Rice Cake From 九份油蔥粿
A simple and unique rice cake that takes an arduous 5 hours to make. These traditional cakes are made from only rice, a paste is formed which is then continuously layered until you have a large block. The block is then carved into slices when you order. Watch the lady expertly carve the block without losing a finger in the process, it’s impressive.
The rice cakes are served with either a spicy or salty sauce and then sprinkled with fried shallots. We went to 九份油蔥粿. As rice is the only ingredient it is gluten free, vegetarian and vegan!
Red Vinasse Taiwanese Meatballs
A bright red pork meatball is encased inside a gelatinous mochi covering and is then served in sauce. Honestly, I was surprised to find out this was meat, initially, I assumed it was strawberry which would have sucked if I was expecting a sweet treat. Nevertheless, the dish is a slippery and gloopy surprise that should be tried!
Taiwan Sausage
During our weekend trip to Jiufen Bobby grew slightly addicted to the classic Taiwanese sausage. Deliciously fatty, slightly sweet, and served with a clove of garlic, they are a must-try. You can find them all over Taiwan and there are loads of stalls on Jiufen Old Street. Conveniently served on a stick so you can eat it while walking to the next food stall.
Lai Ah Po Taro Balls (賴阿婆芋圓)
Taro is a stretchy root vegetable, they are mixed with sugar and flour, rolled into little balls and served in a sweet sauce with ice. The most well-known place to taste these balls is 賴阿婆芋圓 Lai Ah Po Taro Balls, you can even watch the workers expertly roll them.
A-Zhu Peanut Ice Cream Roll (阿珠雪在燒)
Another Taiwanese classic, this refreshing snack is made from a spring roll wrap, generously layered with crushed peanuts that they carve from a griddle in front of you, topped with 2-3 scoops of ice-cream and finally sprinkled with cilantro. A-zhu is the place to go to try this in Jiufen, they will even pause so you can take a photo of the snack before it’s wrapped.
Beef Noodles From 九份年代客棧牛肉麵
This was the best thing Bobby and I ate all weekend, and let’s be clear, we ate A LOT! 九份年代客棧牛肉麵 is a sit-down restaurant on Jiufen Old Street, if the scent of beef doesn’t draw you in then the cosy atmosphere might.
We ordered the classic beef noodles and spicy dry pork noodles. The beef noodles had a rich broth with tender cuts of meat that easily fall apart in your mouth. The spicy dry noodles were very spicy, we love spicy food and are often left disappointed by spicy dishes, but this packed a good punch. Every table also has homemade spicy seasoning and beef seasoning for additional flavour.
Boba Tea
Jiufen has plenty of delicious boba tea places, I loved Xing Fu Tang, which is actually a well-known chain in Taiwan, but it’s delicious! Their best seller is the brown sugar boba milk tea, I ordered the strawberry milk which was soo nice! The boba pearls are perfectly chewy and fresh.
Jiufen Jie Jiao Traditional Diner (首選人氣必吃美食特色平價餐廳推薦)
Another sit down eatery, Jie Jiao (首選人氣必吃美食特色平價餐廳推薦) is a delicious place to rest, have few bites and a cold beer. They have fabulous views on the balcony, but also inside has a nice laid-back vibe.
The food is incredible but also affordable. I recommend the xiaolongbao and braised pork rice. We also tried chicken tail (it is basically its ass) which was interesting, there was no meat just tendon. There is a nice variety of beers which you can help yourself with from the fridge.
Herbal Rice Cakes From 阿蘭草仔粿
This stall caught our attention, no matter what time we walked by it had really long queues. We didn’t end up going here ourselves but after some research we found that they are rice cakes with a variety of fillings, such as red bean, pickled vegetables, radish, and taro.
5) Shuqi Road
This narrow alley is located on a staircase, draped with red lanterns. Once the lanterns are turned on, the alley becomes a dark, flickering hue of crimson. Exploring it really feels like you are in Spirited Away, especially when it rains and you you can hear are the rain drops falling on the metal shop roofs. The whole alley is incredibly atmospheric and photogenic.
However, be warned, as one of the most popular things to do in Jiufen, it gets insanely busy, especially in the evenings with people taking photos. Moreover, Amei Teahouse is located toward the bottom of the alley. If you can, try to get here toward the end of the evening, at about 9 pm, when the lanterns are still on but the tour groups have dispersed.
6) Xiahai City God Temple
This beautiful and small temple is a must-visit in Jiufen. Although small, it holds a lot of historical significance. Built during the gold mining era in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, it was frequently visited by mining families for blessings of safety. Dedicated to the City God (Cheng Huang), who oversees a town’s affairs and protects its residents (both the alive and deceased), the temple features a traditional Taiwanese temple architecture, with intricate carvings, colourful statues, and of course, lanterns. Located at the bottom of Jiufen Old Street, it’s worth a stop by.
7) A Different Kind Of Tea
You’ve had tea, boba tea, and maybe even tea-flavoured desserts, so why not go one step further and have a tea cocktail? We are nothing if not balanced on this blog. Golden Bar (逸茶酒室) has a creative cocktail menu inspired by the local tea. Drinks include ‘Oolong Tea You Can’t Drink in Amei Teahouse,’ a gin, guava, beer, and oolong concoction, or ‘Earl Of Kinmen’s Sorghum Milk Tea,’ which combines wine with Earl Gray milk tea. There are also non-tea cocktails that are inspired by classic Taiwanese foods. I had the ‘Tipsy Childhood,’ which is rum-based with plum. Another drink that was interesting was ‘Grandma’s Favourite Pineapple Cake‘.
Along with the drinks, the food is delicious. We ordered the chicken curry and beef stew with hand-cut noodles, both came with a generous serving of vegetables. Although both were very good, the beef stew was the star. This is a thing to do in Jiufen at night, as one of the only late bar.
8) Cat Bar
Another notable bar is M House, another thing to do in Jiufen at night. This is more casual than Golden Bar but has a nice vibe with some furry locals. M House Bar has a few cats that will come up and say hello, they are very friendly. As I am writing this, I wonder if the “M” stand for “meow’? I looked but I just can’t find the answer.
The food is also good. We ordered a delicious Taiwanese sausage here.
9) Day trip to Shifen Old Street
You can easily reach Shifen Old Street from Jiufen. Many people combine the two towns into one action packed day trip from Taipei.
Shifen is the largest old street on the Pingxi line. It’s a railway town with a train that runs straight through it. Each side of the train track has shops, restaurants, and street stalls. Consider it a more relaxed version of Hanoi train street. A major thing to do here is to set off a lantern or firework. The tradition of setting off a lantern goes back to the gold mining years when the miners would set off lanterns signalling to their family that they are safe. Today, the lanterns are set off with dreams and wishes.
Along with lanterns, Shifin Waterfall is a must-see. It is 20 metres high, and if you are lucky to visit on a sunny day, you can see a rainbow that forms from the mist. The waterfall is truly spectacular, just a 20-minute walk from Shifin Old Street. It should not be missed.
☕ Tag Cafe in Shifen is a cool pink container ship style cafe with different themed rooms that you need to walk on an artificial jetty to get to. Their salted caramel latte is delicious.
10) Teapot Mountain
I often hear people state that climbing Teapot Mountain was the best thing they did in all of Taiwan, let alone Jiufen. Excited to see what the hype was about, we arrived with litres of water, snacks, and in our best gear, only to be greeted with bright yellow tape blocking the entrance. Turns out due to a heavy rainfall, part of the trail collapsed and would need to be worked on. So, unfortunately we could not climb it ourselves.
Instead, we climbed the humble Baoshishan Lookout and headed back to Jiufen with our mass of water in tow. Teapot Mountain was top of our list of things to do in Jiufen, so although we did not get the chance to climb it, I wanted to include it in this guide to Jiufen. The Sandy Feet wrote a detailed guide on climbing Teapot Mountain if you would like to know specifics on the trails. Also, keep on eye on Ruifang District Office NTPC Facebook page for updates on the trail.
Things Do In Jiufen At Night
As mentioned, most people come to Jiufen as a day trip. If you are staying here for longer you are probably wondering what there is to do at night in Jiufen, considering the majority of places close at 8 pm. The red lanterns turn off at 10 pm, after that it is very dark. You won’t be staying up until the early hours of the morning but here are a few places open a little later than others.
- Sip a fancy cocktail in Golden Bar
- Play with the cats in M House Bar
- Have an evening tea session in Amei Teahouse (open until 9 pm)
- Take photos at the fun photobooth across from Family Mart
- Fill up on Family Mart and 7 11 snacks – both shops are open 24 hours
Overall Thought: Is Jiufen Actually Worth Visiting?
Yes, Jiufen is a gorgeous town, full of history, sprawling views, scenic teahouse and street food. It is exceptionally busy for good reason. It is easily reached from Taipei, whether as a day trip or a longer overnight stay. I have never been anywhere like Jiufen, it felt like I hoped in a time machine, wandering the narrow flickering light alleys is like nowhere else.
Have you been to Jiufen? Let me know what you got up to below 🙂
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